This extensive road trip began in Dresden Germany where we only spent one night. The most memorable and wonderful part of our short stay, is Lisa and I's morning run. We had wanted to see the city lit up in the dark, but we also didn't want to get caught out late in an unfamiliar city. Instead, the next morning we got up to go on our morning run and explore a bit more. It was BEAUTIFUL! The sun gave us just enough light to be safe, but also allowed us to see the city lights up against the horizon. As we reached the river we stopped, turned around, and to our left the sun was rising in all sorts of shades of red, purple and pink. Even better,straight ahead was the castle, cathedral, and all of the other century old buildings that made up the town square. I couldn't resist, so we ran up the castle steps and I pumped my fists in the air and danced, just like Rocky would!! This my favorite part of the WHOLE trip!!!
Here are some other places that I feel so fortunate to have seen:
Castle Church (Schlosskirche Lutherstadt Wittenberg):
The Schlosskirche Lutherstadt Wittenberg is most widely known as the church that Martin Luther nailed his 95 Theses to. It is hard to say if the doors that occupy the church today are the same famous stage for the beginning of the reformation. Originally built about 500 years ago, the church was almost completely demolished during the 7-years War. It was again rebuilt in the “Neo-Gothic style” between 1883 and 1892.
Compared to many cathedrals that we have seen in Germany, Schlosskirche seems simplistic. It is in this simplicity that one experiences the greatness within its walls. The impact of the cathedral is not found in a pulpit structured out of pure gold, or an organ that stretches from floor to ceiling, but rather in the statues that tower above and look down on their congregation. Men such as Rhegius, Melanchthon, and of course Martin Luther, who were all players in what history calls the Reformation, but for them, it was about living out their convictions. These convictions were not only defended with theology and scripture, but also by blood. This is evident as one’s eyes are drawn to the balcony that is decorated with various shields. These were not only used to protect, but also weapons of destruction at the unraveling of ancient religious rituals.
Interestingly enough, this very church is where Luther was laid to rest. Unfortunately he was not buried by his wife, who, according to church documents, was buried in “Torgau”. Luther’s body does however have permanent companionship with his friend Philip Melanchthon, who is buried by his side.
The City Church if St. Mary in Wittenberg (Wittenberg Germany):
Unlike the Castle Church, “Die Stadtpfarrkirche St. Marien zu wittenburg, was where Martin Luther preached on a weekly basis when he was not traveling around Germany and much of Europe. Some may say that it is not as architecturally impressive as the Castle, but regardless, its twin towers stretch to act as one of the highest points in the city. Although its doors are not famous for occupying his 95 Theses, the wall of his parish can tell much more exciting stories. For this church was known as the “Mother of Reformation”.
It was in these modest pews that Luther’s congregation heard mass in their own language for the first time. Rather then it being in Latin, much to the surprise of the people, it was delivered in German. It is hard to know if they realized it then, but that Sunday remains a vital stepping stone leading away from the power of the Catholic Church.
Adding to the path was the way in which Luther insisted communion was to be taken. Rather than the focus being on the priest and his blessing of the communion, for the first time, Luther gave the sacraments while encouraging the people to meet in a personal communion with God. This momentous occasion is depicted in the painting that stands behind the alter.It is a masterpiece, painted by Lucas Cranach, in a Wittenberg workshop. In it the citizens of Wittenberg are pictures and it is entitled “Congregational Celebration” and is referring to the Lord’s Supper. Not the Pope’s, the Lord’s. Lutherhaus Wittenberg (Wittenberg Germany):
The somewhat modern look to the Lutherhaus lobby was quite deceiving of the gems of history that awaited us inside. As I carefully walked down the steep stairwell leading to the basemen, I couldn’t help but think about the period of Luther’s life when he stayed her as a monk. Carefully I walked, trying not to hit my head on the low ceiling. At 5’5’’ I was having trouble. I wonder how many grown men learned to avoid the same obstacle the hard way. Soon to find out, our special tour had led us down into the basement of the monastery. This dry, dark atmosphere was apparently ideal for making beer. Who know the monks would be the best drafters in town? :)
At this point I broke off from the rest of the group to explore on my own. Back up the stairs and up a level, I found myself wondering through the rooms in a focused silence. The subtle creak of the wood planks beneath my feet was the only sound that accompanied me. Doorway after doorway lead to new rooms filled with goblets, pottery, a community chest, and also my personal favorite, the printing press.
There it stood in the dim light surrounded by the works and writings of brilliant literary minds. I stood gazing at it, wondering if it still worked; if it was still capable of the same, undeniable effect that it had on society back during the early stages of the Reformation. I will never know, for the sign clearly read, “DO NOT TOUCH!”
Augustinian Monastery (Erfurt Germany):
Cold, Dim, Quiet: This was the daily life of the monks that Augustinian Monastery in Erfurt Germany. Founded between 1276 and 1340, the monastery became home to some of the most devout Catholics and scholars. According to the monastery’s website, “By the time Martin Luther joined the order on July 17, 1505; the Augustinerkloster was a respected center of Catholic learning with a theological college and an extensive library.”
As I stood in the courtyard of the monastery hearing, but not understanding our German tour guide, everything seemed cold and lifeless. No longer are there monks walking the halls or working in their gardens. Not that one would hear them anyway, for in much of the monastery, speaking was prohibited. Kelly systematically translated and we were soon to find out that this was this very place where Martin Luther came following his surrendering his life to God. As the story goes, one evening Luther got caught in a thunderstorm, already tormented by constant anxiety over dying, Luther there and then vowed to dedicate his life to being a monk and following after God. So, rather than going to law school as his father had pressured him to do, Martin Luther joined the Augustinian Monastery from 1505-1511.
After what seemed like hours in the cathedral, that seemed more like a freezer than a place of worship, we headed to the quarters where the monks slept and studied. The set up of each “cell” made it obvious that their time here was much more geared toward their education, and not so much on sleeping. Each room was roughly 20 square feet or less, containing a desk, stool and window that would more accurately be classified as a peep hole. One cell contained a small mat that was made completely out of burlap. According to our tour guide, their “beds” would more accurately be place just outside their cell doors, for the inside of their cell was meant for studying and working. This was not a life intended for luxury.
Wartburg Castle (Wartburg Germany)
Out of all the places that we visited on our reformation tour, this was my favorite tour! Besides being able to climb up the sides of the mountains walls, and hike through the forest, the castle is self was gorgeous. It may have been the sunshine brightening our day, but for me, it was the ability to explore. Many of the places that we go are very challenging to those of us who are kinesthetic learners; they are cased, tapped off, blocked off and in my mind, quite lifeless. Here at the Wartburg castle, this was not the case!
My favorite thing about this castle is that it is where Luther found refuge as he was translating the New Testament. I did not see it myself, but many say that there is a distinct stain on the floor of his room where he “through an ink jar at the Devil”.
As I climbed spiral staircase to the “museum exhibit” place in one of the rooms, I found myself more fascinated with the doorways and secret passages (that turned out to not be so secret :) ) that still stood after being built as far back as the 12th century. Historians say that the castle was not mentioned in documents until about 1806, but the oldest remaining parts of the building date much farther back.It is said that during the middle ages, the castle itself became a center of culture, religion and politics. But perhaps most importantly to the Reformation, it acted as Luther’s refuge from the storm of Pope Leo X after he was excommunicated when he refused to recant at the diet of Worms.
Speyer Cathedral (Speyer Germany):
The Speyer Cathedral stands as a perfect example of the power struggle of the Catholic Church. Known as the “imperial Cathedral of Speyer”, its building began in 1030. Those who constructed this masterpiece most likely didn’t know it would be then, but it “is one of the largest and most significant Romanesque edifices in Germany”. To symbolize the power of the emperors, the foundation of this building is shaped “in the form of a Latin cross”, and it is instilled with a gallery that stretches through the entire building. Some may say that this style of architecture was meant solely to bring glory to God, but more accurately, it was an outlet to for flaunting the wealth of the Catholic Church.
This focus in the Catholic religious portrayed in the holding of the Diet of Worms. This is the very place in which Martin Luther was summoned to defend not only his 95 Theses, but also many of his other works that stood in contradiction to the theological foundations of the Catholic Church. It was in these red sandstone walls, that Luther withstood the pressure of a “general assembly of the Imperial estates of the Holy Roman Empire”. It was here that he refused to recant his beliefs. For it, he was excommunicated.
It is hard for me to imagine how intimidated Luther must have felt as he pushed through the heavy steel doors, only to enter into a heavier atmosphere of resistance that was soon to be known as marking the beginning of the Reformation.
We are now back in Regensburg, but the business continues! One 8 page paper and a final are all that remain for this class. Then Saturday, we are off to Italy! But no matter how busy I may be, or the adventures I may go on, my heart still remains at home. God has truly been teaching me how wonderful people, rather then places, are in my life. I may not always be the best at showing it, but please know, I cherish you all!
Love,
Heather Dawn
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